To the Jungle! (And the Seaside)

As May rolled in, we decided it was time for a break. We went off to the town of Kep, on the Southern coast of Cambodia. The attraction was multifold: jungle, sea and a very comfortable lodge to stay in. Despite walking our feet off and meeting some interesting new friends in the jungle (of which more in a future post), it was probably the most relaxing time we have had in years. For both of us, walking in the jungle was a whole new experience.

Above is what the jungle looks like when you're not in it. Below is what it looks like when you are.

Behind the lodge where we were staying was Kep national park: a series of hills that were largely still pristine jungle. However, there were two paths you could follow: one around the hills and one to the top. When we say paths, please don't get the wrong impression. We had to dodge spider webs, clamber over fallen trees, avoid soldier ants, watch out for treading on millipedes and, at times, slide downhill on our backsides, grabbing at ant-infested branches to slow us down. All in all, a bit of an adventure. It took us all of one day to walk around the hills, and most of another to get to the top. The evidence is below.

The other great attraction of Kep is the sea, and especially the small islands that are dotted around just off the coast. Unfortunately, the weather turned unpredictable (read downright scary) so we stayed on-shore. Nonetheless, there was plenty of fabulous seafood to be had, fresh out of the water. The picture below was taken from our table at a little wooden restaurant that sat right on the sea. In it, a fisherwoman is dragging a crab pot ashore straight to the restaurant. That's fresh.

Before you all mark Kep down as the next hot destination, perhaps we should point out a few things. First, Kep is not easy to get to. There is a bus, but until you've sampled the delights of the Phnom Penh Sorya Transport Company, you can't really understand what that means. Suffice it to say that it arouses comment when the driver actually has a proper seat that is fixed to the floor. No problem, you might say. No, not until you're hurtling along a potholed road at about 70 km/hour and a bullock cart pulls out right in front of you. No problem, you might still say (you can go around it) until you see the 5,000-ton Russian Kamaz logging truck coming the other way and taking up just about the whole of the road. What we're saying here is that it's almost as bad as going by Ryanair, but probably takes even longer.

Then, when you arrive, there's nothing actually there. Administratively, Kep is a city and has the same theoretical status as Phnom Penh. This is because, up to the 1960s, it was indeed Cambodia's premier resort. Unfortunately, that kind of thing did not go down well with a particular previous Cambodian government. Consequently, Kep is now mostly a ruin, although many of the ruins are still inhabited.



There are one or two hotels, a nice, if small, beach, and what is known as the Crab Market: a series of landing stages and restaurant shacks where the food is as good as the menu is incomprehensible, and where the subject of food hygiene or safety has never reared its ugly head. If you're looking for the Costa del Sol, go to the Costa del Sol. On the other hand, we found it one of the most fascinating, charming and relaxing places we had ever been. We've already booked to go back.

More soon. In the meantime, please don't forget the need to keep supporting VSO through our Justgiving page at www.justgiving.com/jagoteers.